If I get my way it'll be about 15' long by an average of 6' wide and 7' deep, although I can go deeper if need be. Haven't worked out the volume yet.
I'll have to sort out the flow through the Bottom Drain according to the requirements of the filter I use. I guess you vary the flow by altering the difference in height between pond and filter? The lower the filter the faster the flow is what I'm assuming but how you calculate the final flow in relation to this is still a mystery to me. I have the Pod already and am ready to fork out for a second hand Easy 200/300. I just hope that the combination of these two will be sufficient because money starts getting thin round about then!!
I'll also need to rely on the mature K1 in the Pod to keep things stable until the bigger filter kicks in later on. I will keep the fish to a minimum and not exceed the 100g a day which is the max for the Pod.
I'm also going to have to buy one of those round pools with the white support bars (Big paddling pools?!) to keep my fish in during the build. The Pod will run that along with a 30W UV and a 30 litre air pump through a 9" disc. If I get the Nexus Easy early I guess it wont hurt to stick it on here as well to start the K1 off?
That's as far as I've got with my thinking so far!!
Louie
Kent Pond Builders?
Moderators: B.Scott, vippymini, Gazza, Manky Sanke
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Gazza
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Hi Louie
Your new dimensions will be around the 3800-4000gls which is a nice manageable size of pond.Keep an eye out for the Nexus as they go very fast when they come up
Defiantly go with a separate pipe for the air and the flow for the pond will be worked out on the size of the pond and what filtration you use but i am sure we can bat a few ideas around
Here is a picture of my bottom drain which is a normal one converted to take a a pressure pipe for the air:
[img]http://www.koipix.com/gallery/albums/userpi ... 2_1270.jpg[/img]
Your new dimensions will be around the 3800-4000gls which is a nice manageable size of pond.Keep an eye out for the Nexus as they go very fast when they come up
Defiantly go with a separate pipe for the air and the flow for the pond will be worked out on the size of the pond and what filtration you use but i am sure we can bat a few ideas around
Here is a picture of my bottom drain which is a normal one converted to take a a pressure pipe for the air:
[img]http://www.koipix.com/gallery/albums/userpi ... 2_1270.jpg[/img]
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Bob Hart
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Louie,
Your new sizes are circa 4000 gallons, so you'll need the Nexus 300. Although the 200 says it can go up to 4000 gallons, dont be tempted as you'll be on the limit always. Always better to have too much filtration, especially when the Koi grow.
The filter turnover and therefore gallonage through the bottom drain pipework, is based upon the pump you put after the Nexus. Not sure what the recomended pump for the 300 is - will check. A single bottom drain should be OK for this size of pond though.
Gazza's picture says it all for the aeration pipe for the aerated bottom drain.
Your new sizes are circa 4000 gallons, so you'll need the Nexus 300. Although the 200 says it can go up to 4000 gallons, dont be tempted as you'll be on the limit always. Always better to have too much filtration, especially when the Koi grow.
The filter turnover and therefore gallonage through the bottom drain pipework, is based upon the pump you put after the Nexus. Not sure what the recomended pump for the 300 is - will check. A single bottom drain should be OK for this size of pond though.
Gazza's picture says it all for the aeration pipe for the aerated bottom drain.
The pics convey so much more than words, don't they!? That looks pretty straightforward. I guess you just drill an access point into the BD.
To be honest, I thought that when operating a gravity fed system you had no use for pumps at all.... Shows what a lot I have to learn!
The Nexus 300's seem to be going for around the £720 mark second hand and they do seem to crop up on a fairly regular basis on Ebay. If the 200 would be operating on its limit then I would only opt for the 300.
The only thing I'm a little uncertain about is tying in the mesh to the concrete blocks. I had intended to fill the gap between blocks and brickwork with concrete to add support, whilst the blocks would be flush to the pond walls below ground and standing upon the 8" of strengthened concrete.
One thing that I would like information on are the pros and cons of heating. If I heat the pond does it stop my fish from going into "Zombie mode" during the cold months and therefore eliminate the need to either stop feeding them or changing their diet to wheatgerm based foods unless water temp drops below 4 degrees when they don't eat at all??
And for a pond of 4000ish gallons what are the costs? And how essential would it then become to have the pond totally or partially covered?
Please see my signature for the full apology!!!! lol
Louie.
BTW....... I have a date of 11-9-07 for my unfair dismissal case when I expect to pick up the substantial wedge which will pay for this build. Let's hope that the British summer starts to kick in round about then!!
To be honest, I thought that when operating a gravity fed system you had no use for pumps at all.... Shows what a lot I have to learn!
The Nexus 300's seem to be going for around the £720 mark second hand and they do seem to crop up on a fairly regular basis on Ebay. If the 200 would be operating on its limit then I would only opt for the 300.
The only thing I'm a little uncertain about is tying in the mesh to the concrete blocks. I had intended to fill the gap between blocks and brickwork with concrete to add support, whilst the blocks would be flush to the pond walls below ground and standing upon the 8" of strengthened concrete.
One thing that I would like information on are the pros and cons of heating. If I heat the pond does it stop my fish from going into "Zombie mode" during the cold months and therefore eliminate the need to either stop feeding them or changing their diet to wheatgerm based foods unless water temp drops below 4 degrees when they don't eat at all??
And for a pond of 4000ish gallons what are the costs? And how essential would it then become to have the pond totally or partially covered?
Please see my signature for the full apology!!!! lol
Louie.
BTW....... I have a date of 11-9-07 for my unfair dismissal case when I expect to pick up the substantial wedge which will pay for this build. Let's hope that the British summer starts to kick in round about then!!
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Bob Hart
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LOL - How much are you paying for the advice????????Louie wrote:BTW....... I have a date of 11-9-07 for my unfair dismissal case when I expect to pick up the substantial wedge which will pay for this build. Let's hope that the British summer starts to kick in round about then!!
Tieing in the mesh - look at Gazza's picture and imagine the outer edge being bent upwards by a couple of feet.
Then lay the concrete bace and you'll have 2-feet of mesh sticking upwards all around the pond. When laying the bace, you could of course also all more mesh cut so that it goes into the concrete and then sticks straight up, or even some rebar.
Now lay 4" concrete blocks for the inner walls of the pond, leaving a 3-4" gap behind the blocks, where the mesh/rebar is sticking up.
Once the walls are to ground level, mix up more concrete and backfill behind the blocks. This will tie the blocks into the mesh, into the floor. When laying the bloacks, wall ties can also be added at each course level, again to tie the walls in.
Above ground level, use blcoks on the inner wall and bricks on the outer wall. At the back and any sides which wont be seen, just use blocks laid on their sides.